Quiver Killer FAQs

How hard is it to install Quiver Killers?

Installing Quiver Killer inserts is fairly easy and can be quite fast.  In our hands, we can install a set of inserts into a single ski in 15 minutes or less, depending upon how many inserts are required.  

For the easiest installation into new skis, we recommend you have your local ski shop drill out pilot holes for you using a shop jig for your binding.  This is straight-forward for them, and it'll give you confidence on the hole spacing without having to work out the paper jig dimensions.  

If you're mounting to existing skis, this is really easy.  Simply remove the binding and existing binding screws, drill out the binding holes (we recommend using our pro step bit) and follow the general insert installation instructions. Tapping the holes is key and ensuring you're perpendicular to the ski is important before you cut the threads.  A simple two dimensional visual check on the tap position is generally all that is required, although some use a drill/tap guide to make this easier.

Basic skill requirements: You should be comfortable with the general use of a powered hand drill and manual tap.

 

Where can I find a shop who can install these into my new skis?

Check out our retailer and dealer page for the shops we know to carry our stuff, or better yet, give your local shop a nudge - we'd be happy to set them up with the best products and process to get it done right.

 

I don't see my binding on the fastener list.  How do I get the right fasteners for my bindings?

Keeping the fastener by binding list updated with all the new binding technology is nearly a full time job.  We are committed to providing the most complete and up to date fastener kits available.  If you don't see your binding listed, or just want to give us a heads up on a new binder, shoot us an email and let us know.  Generally, we'll have the fasteners fitted and a kit developed within a few days.  Alternatively, you can also order a fit kit and determine the fasteners you need for your bindings (instructions on how to do this are provided on the downloads page).  Simply send us your findings, and we'll comp you a set of fasteners.  It's that easy.

 

Why are some fastener kits more expensive than others?

We strive to keep our kits up to date with all the new developments and binding products available.  We've found over the past few years that some of the new binding designs require specialty fasteners, and often ones that are not easily sourced.  In these cases, we work with our local machine suppliers to manufacture the right fastener for the binding. Because these are specialty items, and in low volume production, the costs for these fasteners are a bit higher.  We don't mark these items up, but rather just charge the cost of the specialty manufacture.  We feel this works best for you, the customer, and supports our local Colorado small businesses that make Quiver Killer products work so well.

 

 Should I use Vibra-tite or Loctite on my fasteners?  And how often do I need to re-apply?

 We recommend using Vibra-tite.  The solvent used with Loctite (blue) can cause unwanted and adverse effects to the ski's top sheet, binding plastics and your epoxy application.  When applying Vibra-tite, only a small amount is needed (a small dab directly on the threads).  For best results, you'll want to let it dry on the threads before screwing your fasteners into your set up - about 30 minutes usually does it. As a general rule, we re-apply Vibra-tite to the fastener every 2-3 times the bindings are removed and re-installed.  

 

How tight do I need to screw my fasteners down onto the bindings?

We get this question a lot.  Turns out, you need much less torque on the fasteners than you might think.  Providing your using a compound like Vibra-tite, the fasteners need to be snug holding the binding against the ski, but not overly tight.  Roughly 4 Nm torque (hand tight) is plenty.  Over-tightening the fasteners will reduce the strength of the fastener-insert connection and increase the risk of shear or fastener breakage. If you're a complete perfectionist, you can purchase a torque handle that accepts your driver and dial each fastener in to exact spec.